The other night we opened another 2000 Monthelie les Clous from Daniel Buisson-Dupont, friends gathered. Quite a change from the first time we had it a year ago, this time full of power, thick and full. Why the difference? Well, a few possibilities.

I have just come across the Guala seal plastic cork, on a Monthelie "monopole" red. Monthelie is one of the best Burgundies, as I have written before (here) and I don't think this cork has helped it at all.

Okay, I admit this is not my favourite Monthelie and not as grandiose as the famous Douhairet sisters, but it is captures nicely one of the characteristics some people love about Burgundies: a clear lucid colour belying a nice, full finish. Daniel Buisson-Dupont is in Mersault. I wonder if he is related to Buisson-Battault? I don't know his Meursault, but a quarter of his small production is Monthelie red; this 2000 Monthelie is simple and elegant, with just enough pinot noir power at 13%. Not the kaleidescope of flavours of a bigger Burgundy, but just enough complexity there to complement a fine lunch. C+

Reds; kaleidoscope and fireworks, starting from 4-5 years in, incred at 10. B+