Burgundy World

Two Volnays

Published:  March 29, 2009

I am starting to think that the best wine growers must be from Meursault. First there was that Monthelie Les Clous, by Meursault man Daniel Buisson-Dupont, and now we just had a stunning Volnay Champans Premier Cru 2002 by Jean-Marie Bouzereau, again based in Meursault. The same evening with guests we had a Volnay village 1998 from Volnay, Michel Lafarge again. This older wine was venerable, elegant, but perhaps a little thin, possibly  because of its age. B-

The Volnay Champans was big and velvety, with that pinot noir fireworks of flavours darting in different directions around the palate. This pinot noir was harvested by hand, and spent some 18 months in oak barrels, of which only a fifth were new, which helps keep the oak bearably subtle. The pleasure was made all the greater by the fact that this 7-year-old gem was a present from my 7-year-old son. B+

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